Huntington Beach is like ground zero for surfers.
I write a thousand words a day, and I always stop in the middle of a scene or thought, and it makes it easy to pick up on the next day.
When I got out of college, I had to make a living, and I started writing for magazines, and it felt like the perfect job.
Writing, to me, is like kayaking a river. You are paddling down, and you come to a walled-off canyon, and you make a sharp turn, and you don't know what's around the corner. It could be a waterfall, it could be a big pool. The narrative current carries you. You're surprised, and you're thrilled, and sometimes you're terrified.
I just love when the learning curve is steep. And I love being in nature, in the wild.
Species are going extinct because of habitat loss and warming. I feel deeply responsible and think about it every day.