For whatever reason, maybe it's because of my story, but people associate Livestrong with exercise and physical fitness, health and lifestyle choices like that.
I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.
Through my illness I learned rejection. I was written off. That was the moment I thought, Okay, game on. No prisoners. Everybody's going down.
It's funny, because I have periods where I just kind of go dark. I don't tweet, I don't talk, I don't interview, and then I have times where I do.
My mom was such a strong character. I don't want to say she was like a man, but she was tough.
Winning is about heart, not just legs. It's got to be in the right place.
